Yintoni umahluko wokwenyani phakathi kwesilika engabizi kakhulu nexabiso eliphantsi?

Ngaba udidekile luluhlu olukhulu lwamaxabiso eemveliso zesilika? Esi sikhokelo siza kukufundisa indlela yokubona isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu, ukuze uzive uqinisekile ngokuthenga kwakho okulandelayo.Isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu[^1] ichazwa yindlela evakala ngayo, ukukhazimla kwayo, kunye nobunzima bayo. Isilika ebiza kakhulu ivakala ithambile kwaye igudile, inokukhanya okuthambileyo kweperile, kwaye inzima ngenxa yokuba iphezulu.Inani loomama[^2]. Iisilika ezingabizi kakhulu zihlala zingabonakali zigudile, zikhazimla njengeplastiki, kwaye zincinci.

Isenokubonakala inzima, kodwa ukwahlula phakathi kwesilika elungileyo nembi kulula xa sele uyazi into omawuyijonge. Njengomntu osebenze ngesilika phantse iminyaka engama-20, ndingakubonisa amaqhinga alula okuthenga ngobuchule. Masiqhekeze izinto ezibalulekileyo ukuze ukwazi ukuthenga ngokuzithemba kwaye ufumane umgangatho wobunewunewu owufaneleyo.

Ungayibona njani ukuba isilika ikumgangatho ophezulu?

Uma evenkileni okanye ukhangela kwi-intanethi, kodwa yonke isilika ifana. Uyakwazi njani ukwahlula okulungileyo kokubi? Udinga uvavanyo olulula ukujonga umgangatho.Ungayibona isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu ngezinto ezintathu eziphambili: ukuchukumisa kwayo, ukukhazimla kwayo, kunye nobunzima bayo (uMama). Isilika esemgangathweni wokwenene ivakala ithambile kwaye ipholile, inokukhanya okufana neeperile okutshintsha ekukhanyeni, kwaye ivakala inamandla, ingabi buthuntu. Ikwamelana nokushwabana xa uyihlanganisa.Kuyo yonke imisebenzi yam eWonderful Silk, ndincede abathengi abaninzi ukuba baqonde la mahluko. Abaninzi bayamangaliswa xa beqala ukuva isilika yethu ye-22 Momme emva kokuba beqhele ukusebenzisa ezinye iindlela ezingabizi kakhulu. Umahluko awubonakali nje kuphela; yinto onokuziva ngokwenene. Ukuze sikuncede ube yingcali, makhe sijonge ezi mvavanyo ngokusondeleyo.

IUvavanyo lokuchukumisa[^3]

Le yindlela elula yokugweba isilika.Isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu[^1] inemvakalelo eyahlukileyo. Ifanele ukuba ithambile kwaye igudile, ichukumise ulusu lwakho ngendlela epholileyo. Xa uyihambisa ezandleni zakho, iphuma njengolwelo. Ikwanayo nokuthamba okuncinci; ukuba uyitsala kancinci, kufuneka inike amandla amancinci ize ibuyele kwimo yayo. Isilika okanye i-polyester satin ekumgangatho ophantsi, kwelinye icala, inokuvakala iqinile, ifana newax, okanye ityibilika kakhulu ngendlela yokwenziwa. Uvavanyo oluhle ekhaya luvavanyo lokushwabana. Bamba ikona yesilika uze uyikrwele esandleni sakho imizuzwana embalwa.Isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu[^1] ayizukuba nemibimbi ingako, ngelixa isilika engabizi kakhulu iya kubamba imibimbi ngokulula.

IUvavanyo lweLuster kunye neWeave[^4]

Okulandelayo, jonga indlela isilika ebonakalisa ngayo ukukhanya.Isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu[^1], ngakumbiIsilika yeMulberry[^5], inokukhanya okuhle nokuntsonkothileyo, hayi ukukhanya okulula. Ifanele ibonakale njengeperile, inokukhanya okuthambileyo okubonakala ngathi kuvela ngaphakathi kwilaphu. Njengoko uhambisa ilaphu, ukukhanya kufuneka kudlale phezu komphezulu, kwenze iindawo zokukhanya nethunzi. Oku kungenxa yokuba ulwakhiwo olunxantathu lweefayibha zesilika lukhanyela ukukhanya kwii-engile ezahlukeneyo. I-satins ezenziweyo, ngokwahlukileyo, zinokukhanya okuthe tyaba, okumhlophe, nokugqamileyo okubonakala kufana kuzo zonke iikona. Kwakhona, hlola ukuluka. Ilaphu lesilika elihle liya kuba nokuluka okuqinileyo, okuhlala kuhleli ngaphandle kweziphako okanye izibambo ezibonakalayo.

Yeyiphi eyona silika isemgangathweni ophezulu?

Ukhe weva amagama afana neMulberry, Charmeuse, kunye neMomme, kodwa athetha ukuthini? Kuyadida. Ufuna nje ukuthenga isilika ebalaseleyo, kodwa ulwimi olusetyenziswa kakhulu lwenza kube nzima ukuthelekisa.Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu neyona ilungileyo ehlabathini yi-100%Isilika yeMulberry[^5] ngesantya esiphezuluInani loomama[^2]. Wakhulela ekuthinjweni ngokutya okungqongqo kwamagqabi e-mulberry,IBombyx mori[^6]umbungu wesilika uvelisa imicu yesilika emide, enamandla, nefanayo, nto leyo eyenza ilaphu elinobunewunewu elingenakuthelekiswa nanto.

Ndihlala ndixelela abathengi bam ukuba ukuba bafuna okona kulungileyo, impendulo ihlala injaloIsilika yeMulberry[^5]. Ukunyamekela nokulawula okwenziwa kwimveliso yayo kuphumela kwinqanaba lomgangatho ongenakufanekiswa nezinye iisilika. Kodwa ukuze uqonde ngokupheleleyo ukuba kutheni ingcono, kufuneka uqonde nobunzima bayo, esibulinganisayo kwiMomme.

Kutheni iMulberry Silk Ilawula Kakhulu

Imfihlo yokubaIsilika yeMulberryUbuhle be-[^5] bukwimveliso yayo. Iimbungu zesilika, ezaziwa ngokwesayensi njengeIBombyx mori[^6], zikhuliswa kwindawo elawulwayo. Zondliwa ngokutya okukhethekileyo kwamagqabi avela kumthi we-mulberry. Le nkqubo icwangcisiweyo iqinisekisa ukuba imicu yesilika abayiphothayo kwiikhokoni zabo inde kakhulu, imhlophe qwa, kwaye ifana ngobukhulu. Xa le micu ide ilukiwe ibe ngelaphu, yenza into egudileyo kakhulu, eqinileyo, nehlala ixesha elide. Ngokwahlukileyo koko, "isilika yasendle" ivela kwiimpethu ezitya amagqabi ahlukeneyo, nto leyo ebangela imicu emifutshane, engalinganiyo kangako engathambanga kangako okanye ehlala ixesha elide. Yiyo loo nto xa utyala imali kwi-100%Isilika yeMulberry[^5], utyala imali kwizinga eliphezulu kakhulu lomgangatho wesilika.

Indima kaMama kuMgangatho

I-Momme (mm) yiyunithi yobunzima yaseJapan ngoku eyimigangatho yokulinganisa uxinano lwesilika. Cinga ngayo njengomlinganiselo wemisonto yekotoni. Inani eliphezulu le-Momme lithetha ukuba ilaphu lisebenzisa isilika engaphezulu ngemitha yesikwere, nto leyo eyenza ibe nzima, ibe nkulu, kwaye ihlale ixesha elide. Nangona isilika ye-Momme ekhaphukhaphu ifanelekile kwizikhafu ezithambileyo, iphezulu.Inani loomama[^2] zibalulekile kwizinto ezisetyenziswa kakhulu, njengee-pillowcases kunye nee-bonnet. Kwezi mveliso, ndihlala ndicebisa ukuba uqale nge-19 Momme, kodwa i-22 okanye i-25 Momme inika amava angcono kakhulu kwaye iya kuhlala ixesha elide xa inyanyekelwa ngokufanelekileyo.

Zithini iintlobo ezine zesilika?

Ngaphaya kweMulberry, ubona ezinye iintlobo ezifana neTussah kunye neEri. Yintoni umahluko? Oku kongeza olunye udidi lokudideka. Udinga nje ukwazi ukuba ukhethe ntoni kwimveliso esemgangathweni.Nangona kukho iintlobo ezininzi zesilika, zihlala zahlulwe kwiintlobo ezine eziphambili: iMulberry, iTussah, iEri, kunye neMuga. IMulberry yeyona ixhaphakileyo kwaye ikumgangatho ophezulu. Ezinye ezintathu zaziwa ngokuba “ziisilika zasendle,” njengoko ziveliswa ziimbumba zesilika ezingakhuliswanga.

Kwiminyaka engama-20 ndisebenza kwishishini lesilika, ndisebenze ngamalaphu amaninzi, kodwa ingqwalasela yam ibisoloko ikukubonelela abathengi bam ngeyona nto ilungileyo. Yiyo loo nto eWonderful Silk, sisebenzisa phantse kuphelaIsilika yeMulberry[^5]. Nangona iisilika zasendle zinobuhle bazo obahlukileyo, azinakulingana nokuthamba okuhlala kulindelwe ngabathengi bethu kwimveliso yobunewunewu. Makhe sihlolisise ngokufutshane ezi ntlobo zine ziphambili ukuze sibone ukuba kutheni iMulberry ilukhetho olukhethwayo kwiimpahla zexabiso eliphezulu.

Intshatsheli Elawulayo: iMulberry Silk

Njengoko besixoxile,Isilika yeMulberry[^5] ngumgangatho wegolide. Imalunga ne-90% yemveliso yesilika ehlabathini. Yenziwe yiIBombyx mori[^6]I-silkworm, imicu yayo inde, iyafana, kwaye imhlophe ngokwemvelo. Oku kuvumela ukudaywa ngokulinganayo kwaye kuphumela kwilaphu lesilika elithambileyo nelihlala ixesha elide elifumanekayo. Yeyona silika yodwa eveliswa yi-silkworms ezikhuliswe kakuhle, yiyo loo nto umgangatho wayo uhambelana kwaye ugqwesile. Xa uthenga imveliso efana ne-pillowcase yesilika okanye i-hair bonnet, olu luhlobo lwesilika olufunayo.

Iisilika Zasendle

Ezinye iintlobo ezintathu zihlala zihlanganiswa njenge "silika zasendle" kuba iimvuthuluka zesilika azifuywa kwaye zihlala kwindawo yazo yendalo.

• Isilika yaseTussah[^8]:Yenziwe ziintlobo ezahlukeneyo zesilika ezondla amagqabi om-oki. Le silika inemicu emifutshane, erhabaxa kunye nombala wendalo wegolide okanye omdaka. Ayithambile njengeIsilika yeMulberry[^5] kwaye kunzima ngakumbi ukuyidaya.
• Isilika sika-Eri[^9]:Ikwaziwa nangokuthi “isilika yoxolo” kuba imibungu yesilika iyavunyelwa ukuba iphume kwiikhokoni zayo ngaphambi kokuba isilika ivunwe. Imicu imfutshane kwaye inobume obufana noboya okanye ikotoni, nto leyo eyenza ukuba ingagudi kakhulu.Isilika yeMulberry[^5].
• Isilika yeMuga[^10]:Le silika yasendle enqabileyo nebiza kakhulu iveliswa yimibungu yesilika e-Assam, eIndiya. Yaziwa ngokukhazimla kwayo kwendalo kwegolide kunye nokuqina kwayo okugqithisileyo, kodwa ubume bayo oburhabaxa buyenza ingafanelekanga ukusetyenziswa ngokulula njengee-pillowcases.
  

  Uhlobo lweSilika	Ukutya kweSilkworm	Iimpawu zeFayibha	Ukusetyenziswa Okuphambili
  I-Mulberry	Amagqabi e-mulberry	Mde, uthambile, uyafana, umhlophe qwa	Iibhedi zodidi oluphezulu[^7], iimpahla
  ITussah	Um-oki kunye namanye amagqabi	Mfutshane, urhabaxa, umbala wegolide wendalo	Amalaphu anzima, iijakethi
  UEri	Amagqabi eCastor	Mfutshane, uboya, uxineneyo, umhlophe qhwa	Iishawls, iingubo
  IMuga	Amagqabi kaSom noSoalu	Igolide erhabaxa, eqinileyo kakhulu, yendalo	Impahla yesintu yaseIndiya

Isiphelo

Ekugqibeleni, umahluko phakathi kwesilika engabizi kakhulu nebiza kakhulu uxhomekeke kumthombo, ubunzima, kunye nendlela evakala ngayo.Isilika yeMulberry[^5] kunye nexabiso eliphezuluInani loomama[^2] inika ukuthamba okungenakuthelekiswa nanto, ukuqina, kunye nobunewunewu obungenakuthelekiswa nanto.

[^1]: Ukuqonda iimpawu zesilika esemgangathweni ophezulu kunokukunceda wenze izigqibo zokuthenga ezinolwazi. [^2]: Funda ngeMomme count ukuze uqonde indlela echaphazela ngayo umgangatho wesilika kunye nokuqina kwayo. [^3]: Funda kakuhle iTouch Test ukuze ubone ngokulula isilika esemgangathweni ophezulu xa uthenga. [^4]: Hlola olu vavanyo ukuze uqonde indlela isilika ebonakalisa ngayo ukukhanya kunye nomgangatho wayo wokuluka. [^5]: Fumanisa isizathu sokuba isilika yeMulberry ibe ngumgangatho wegolide kumgangatho wesilika kunye nenkqubo yayo yokuvelisa eyahlukileyo. [^6]: Funda ngeBombyx mori silkworm kunye nendima yayo ekuveliseni isilika yekhwalithi ephezulu. [^7]: Fumanisa isizathu sokuba isilika ibe lolona khetho lukhethwayo kwiibhedi zodidi kunye neenzuzo zayo. [^8]: Funda ngemveliso yeTussah Silk kunye neempawu zayo ezahlukeneyo xa kuthelekiswa nesilika yeMulberry. [^9]: Fumanisa iimpawu ezikhethekileyo ze-Eri Silk kunye nokusetyenziswa kwayo kwimpahla yokunxiba. [^10]: Fumanisa ukunqaba kunye neempawu zeMuga Silk, uhlobo olulodwa lwesilika yasendle.