Ngowuphi uMahluko wokwenyani phakathi kweSilk exabiso liphantsi nexabiso liphantsi?
Ngaba ubhidekile luluhlu olukhulu lwamaxabiso kwiimveliso zesilika? Esi sikhokelo siya kukufundisa indlela yokubona isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu, ukuze uzive unentembelo ekuthengeni kwakho okulandelayo.Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu[^1] ichazwa ngokuziva kwayo, ukubengezela, kunye nobunzima. Isilika ebiza imali eninzi ivakala ithambe ngendlela emangalisayo kwaye imtyibilizi, inokukhanya okuthambileyo kweperile, kwaye inzima ngakumbi ngenxa yokuphakama okuphezulu.Mama ubale[^2]. Iisilika zexabiso eliphantsi kaninzi ziziva zingagudi kakhulu, zibenokukhanya okufana neplastiki, kwaye zibhityile.
Isenokubonakala intsonkothile, kodwa ukuxelela isilika elungileyo nembi kulula nje ukuba uyazi ukuba ujonge ntoni. Njengomntu osebenze nesilika phantse iminyaka engama-20, ndingakubonisa amaqhinga alula okuthenga ngobuchule. Masicazulule izinto ezingundoqo ukuze uthenge ngokuzithemba kwaye ufumane umgangatho wobunewunewu obuwufaneleyo.
Unokwazi njani ukuba isilika ikumgangatho ophezulu?
Ume evenkileni okanye ukhangele kwi-intanethi, kodwa yonke isilika ibonakala ifana. Uzahlula njani okulungileyo kokubi? Udinga iimvavanyo ezilula ukujonga umgangatho.Ungayibona isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu ngezinto ezintathu eziphambili: ukubamba kwayo, ukukhanya kwayo, kunye nobunzima bayo (uMama). Isilika esemgangathweni wokwenyani ivakala ithambile kwaye ipholile, inokukhanya okufana neperile okutshintshayo ekukhanyeni, kwaye ivakala ibambekile, ayinciphisi. Ikwaxhathisa ukushwabana xa uyidibanisa.Kuwo wonke umsebenzi wam kwiSilika eMangalisayo, ndincede abantu abaninzi ukuba baqonde lo mahluko. Abaninzi bayothuka xa beqala ukuva isilika yethu kaMama engama-22 emva kokusetyenziselwa ezinye iindlela ezingabizi kakhulu. Umahluko awubonakali nje; yinto onokuyiva ngokwenene. Ukukunceda ube yingcaphephe, makhe sijonge ezi mvavanyo ngokusondeleyo.
IUvavanyo lokuchukumisa[^3]
Le yeyona ndlela ilula yokugweba isilika.Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu[^1] unemvakalelo eyodwa. Kufuneka ithambe ngendlela emangalisayo kwaye igudiswe, ngokuchukumisa okupholileyo eluswini lwakho. Xa uyiqhuba ezandleni zakho, ibaleka njengolwelo. Ikwane-elasticity encinci; ukuba uyitsala ngobunono, kufuneka inike kancinci ize ibuyele kubume bayo. Isilika ekumgangatho ophantsi okanye i-polyester satin, kwelinye icala, inokuziva iqinile, i-waxy, okanye imtyibilizi kakhulu ngendlela yokwenziwa. Uvavanyo olukhulu lwasekhaya luvavanyo lokushwabana. Thatha ikona yesilika kwaye uyikhuhle esandleni sakho imizuzwana embalwa.Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu[^1] iyakuba nokushwabana okuncinci, ngelixa isilika efikelelekayo iyakubamba amakreke ngokulula ngakumbi.
ILuster kunye Weave Test[^4]
Okulandelayo, jonga indlela isilika ekubonakalisa ngayo ukukhanya.Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu[^1], ngakumbiIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5], inobuhle, ubukhazikhazi obuntsonkothileyo, hayi ukukhanya okulula. Ifanele ibukeke njengeperile, ngokukhazimla okuthambileyo okubonakala ngathi kuphuma ngaphakathi kwelaphu. Njengoko uhambisa ilaphu, ukukhanya kufuneka kudlale kuwo wonke umhlaba, kudala iindawo zokukhanya kunye nesithunzi. Oku kungenxa yokuba unxantathu wemicu yesilika iyakujika ukukhanya kwii-engile ezahlukeneyo. I-synthetic satins, ngokuchaseneyo, inomcaba, omhlophe, kunye nokukhanya okuqaqambileyo okujongeka ngokufanayo kwi-engile nganye. Kwakhona, hlola i-weave. Ilaphu le-silk elilungileyo liya kuba ne-tight, i-weave ehambelanayo ngaphandle kweziphoso ezibonakalayo okanye i-snags.
| Uphawu | Isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu | Umgangatho ophantsi okanye iSilika yoMgunyathi |
|---|---|---|
| Chukumisa | Ithambile, igudile, ipholile, kwaye inelastiki kancinane. | Iqinile, i-waxy, okanye imtyibilizi kakhulu. |
| Luster | Iitoni ezininzi, ukukhazimla kweeperile ezimenyezelayo. | Ukukhanya okuthe tyaba, okumhlophe, okune-dimensional enye. |
| Imibimbi | Ixhathisa ukushwabana kwaye igudisa ngokulula. | Imibimbi ngokulula kwaye ibambe amaqhekeza. |
Ngowuphi owona mgangatho ubalaseleyo wesilika?
Ukhe weva amagama afana neMulberry, Charmeuse, kunye noMama, kodwa athetha ukuthini? Iyabhidisa. Ufuna nje ukuthenga i-silika engcono kakhulu, kodwa i-jargon yenza kube nzima ukuthelekisa.Elona silika ligqwesileyo neliphezulu emhlabeni li-100%Isilika ye-Mulberry[^5] ngokuphakamileyoMama ubale[^2]. Uphakanyiswe ekuthinjweni kwisidlo esingqongqo samagqabi e-mulberry, iBombyx mori[^6]umbungu wesilika uvelisa owona mcu wesilika omde, owomeleleyo, nowona ufanayo, wenza ilaphu elingenakuthelekiswa nanto, elitofotofo.
Ndihlala ndixelela abathengi bam ukuba ukuba bafuna eyona nto ingcono, impendulo ihlala ihlala njaloIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5]. Ukunyamekelwa kunye nolawulo oluya kwimveliso yalo lubangela umgangatho womgangatho apho ezinye iisilika zingenako ukufana. Kodwa ukuze uqonde ngokupheleleyo ukuba kutheni yeyona nto ilungileyo, kufuneka uqonde ubunzima bayo, esilinganisa ngoMomme.
Kutheni iSilk yeMulberry ilawula ngokuPhakamileyo
Imfihlo ukubaIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5] ukongama kwimveliso yayo. Imibungu yesilika, eyaziwa ngokwesayensi njengeBombyx mori[^6], bakhuliswe kwindawo elawulwayo. Batyiswa ukutya okukodwa kwamagqabi omthi wamaqunube. Le nkqubo yokunyamekela iqinisekisa ukuba imicu yesilika abayisontayo ukwenzela amaqomboloko ayo mide ngendlela engaqhelekanga, imhlophe qwa yaye ilingana ngokutyebileyo. Xa le micu mide ilukiweyo ibe lilaphu, yenza into egudileyo ngendlela emangalisayo, eyomeleleyo nehlala ixesha elide. Ngokwahlukileyo koko, “isilika yasendle” iphuma kwiintshulube ezitya amagqabi awahlukahlukeneyo, nto leyo ebangela ukuba kubekho imicu emifutshane, nengafane ifane nengathanga ithambile okanye ihlala ixesha elide. Yiyo loo nto xa utyala imali kwi-100%Isilika ye-Mulberry[^5], utyala imali kwincopho yomgangatho wesilika.
Indima kaMama kuMgangatho
I-Momme (mm) yiyunithi ye-Japan yobunzima ngoku esemgangathweni wokulinganisa ubuninzi besilika. Yicinge nje ngokubala kwentambo yomqhaphu. Inani likaMama eliphakamileyo lithetha ukuba ilaphu lisebenzisa isilika eninzi kwi-square meter, liyenza ibenzima, ixinene, kwaye yomelele. Ngelixa isilika kaMama ekhaphukhaphu ilungile kwizikhafu eziethe-ethe, ngaphezuluMama ubale[^2] zibalulekile kwizinto ezibona ukusetyenziswa kakhulu, njenge pillowcases kunye neebhonethi. Kwezi mveliso, ndidla ngokucebisa ukuqala nge-19 Momme, kodwa i-22 okanye i-25 Momme ibonelela ngamava amnandi kakhulu kwaye iya kuhlala ixesha elide ngokhathalelo olufanelekileyo.
| Umama (mm) | Iimpawu | Ukusetyenziswa okuqhelekileyo |
|---|---|---|
| 8-16 | Ikhaphukhaphu, inomoya, ihlala icwebile. | Izikhafu, iilinen, iiblowu ezithambileyo. |
| 17-21 | Umgangatho wempahla esemgangathweni kunye nezinto zokulala. | Iipillowcases, iipjama, iilokhwe. |
| 22-30+ | Obona butofotofo; inzima, i-opaque, kwaye yomelele kakhulu. | Izinto zokulala ezitofotofo[^7], iimpahla eziphezulu, iingubo. |
Zeziphi ezi ntlobo zine zesilika?
Ngaphaya kweMulberry, ubona ezinye iindidi ezifana neTussah kunye noEri. Yintoni umahluko? Oku kongeza omnye umaleko wokubhideka. Kufuneka nje ukwazi ukuba ukhethe ntoni kwimveliso esemgangathweni.Nangona kukho iintlobo ezininzi zesilika, ngokubanzi ziwela kwiindidi ezine eziphambili: iMulberry, iTussah, iEri, neMuga. I-Mulberry ngowona mgangatho uqhelekileyo kunye nophezulu. Ezinye ezintathu zaziwa “njengeesilika zasendle,” njengoko ziveliswa ngumbungu wesilika ongalinywanga.
Kwiminyaka yam engama-20 kushishino lwesilika, ndisebenze ngamalaphu amaninzi, kodwa ugqaliselo lwam belusoloko ikukubonelela ngeyona nto ingcono kubathengi bam. Yiyo loo nto kwiSilika eMangalisayo, siphantse sisebenzise kuphelaIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5]. Ngelixa iisilika zasendle zinobuhle bazo obahlukileyo, azikwazi ukuhambelana nokuthamba okungaguqukiyo, ukomelela, kunye nokuguda okulindelwe ngabathengi bethu kwimveliso yodidi. Makhe sihlolisise ngokufutshane ezi ntlobo zine ziphambili ukuze ubone ukuba kutheni iMulberry ilolona khetho lukhethwayo kwiimpahla zeprimiyamu.
Intshatsheli elawulayo: Isilika ye-Mulberry
Njengoko sixoxile,Isilika ye-Mulberry[^5] ngumgangatho wegolide. Ibalelwa malunga ne-90% yemveliso yesilika yehlabathi. Iveliswe yiBombyx mori[^6]umbungu wesilika, imicu yawo mide, iyafana, kwaye ngokwendalo imhlophe qwa. Oku kuvumela ukudaya nokudaya kwaye kuphumela kwelona laphu lesilika eligudileyo, elomeleleyo elikhoyo. Kuphela kwesilika eveliswa ngumbungu olinywayo, yiyo loo nto umgangatho wayo ungaguquguqukiyo yaye uphakamile. Xa uthenga imveliso efana ne-silk pillowcase okanye ibhonethi yeenwele, olu luhlobo lwesilika oyifunayo.
Iisilika Zasendle
Ezinye iintlobo ezintathu zihlala zidityaniswe kunye “njengeesilika zasendle” kuba imibungu yesilika ayifuywa kwaye ihlala kwindawo yayo yendalo.
- Isilika yeTussah[^8]:Iveliswa ludidi olwahlukileyo lombungu wesilika otya amagqabi oki. Le silika ineentsinga ezimfutshane, ezirhabaxa kunye nombala wendalo obugolide okanye omdaka. Ayithambilenga njengeIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5] kwaye kunzima kakhulu ukudaya.
- Eri Silk[^9]:Ikwabizwa ngokuba yi "peace silk" kuba imibungu yesilika ivumelekile ukuba iphume kumaqombolokoshe phambi kokuba isilika ivunwe. Iintsinga zimfutshane kwaye zinoboya obufana nomqhaphu, nto leyo eyenza ukuba ingabi mtyibilizi kakhulu kuneIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5].
- Muga Silk[^10]:Le silika yasendle inqabileyo nenexabiso eliphezulu iveliswa ngumbungu wesilika eAssam, eIndiya. Iyaziwa ngokukhazimla kwegolide yendalo kunye nokuqina okugqithisileyo, kodwa ukurhaxa kwayo kuyenza ingafaneleki ukusetyenziswa okuthambileyo okunje ngeepillowcases.
Uhlobo lweSilika Ukutya kweSilkworm Iimpawu zeFayibha Usetyenziso oluphambili Iqunube Amagqabi e-mulberry Inde, igudileyo, iyunifomu, imhlophe qwa Izinto zokulala ezitofotofo[^7], impahla Tussah Oki kunye namanye amagqabi Mfutshane, urhabaxa, umbala wegolide wendalo Amalaphu anzima, iibhatyi Eri UCastor uyahamba Mfutshane, unoboya, oshinyeneyo, ongekho mhlophe Iityali, iingubo Muga USom & Soalu bayahamba I-coarse, iqinile kakhulu, igolide yendalo Impahla yesiNtu yamaNdiya
Ukuqukumbela
Ekugqibeleni, umahluko phakathi kwesilika yexabiso eliphantsi kunye nexabiso eliphezulu ufikelela kwimvelaphi, ubunzima, kunye nemvakalelo. Umgangatho ophezuluIsilika ye-Mulberry[^5] nephezuluMama ubale[^2] inika ukuthamba okungenakuthelekiswa nanto, ukuqina, kunye nobunewunewu.
[^1]: Ukuqonda iimpawu zesilika ekumgangatho ophezulu kunokukunceda wenze izigqibo zokuthenga unolwazi. [^2]: Funda malunga nokubalwa kukaMama ukuqonda ukuba kuchaphazela njani umgangatho wesilika kunye nokuqina. [^3]: Inkosi yoVavanyo lokuTonga ukubona ngokulula isilika ekumgangatho ophezulu xa uthenga. [^4]: Phonononga olu vavanyo ukuze uqonde indlela isilika ekubonisa ngayo ukukhanya kunye nomgangatho wayo wokuluka. [^5]: Fumanisa ukuba kutheni isilika ye-Mulberry ingumgangatho wegolide kumgangatho wesilika kunye nenkqubo yayo yokuvelisa eyodwa. [^6]: Funda ngeBombyx mori silkworm kunye nendima yayo ekuveliseni isilika yodidi oluphezulu. [^7]: Fumanisa ukuba kutheni isilika iyeyona ithandwayo kwindawo yokulala yodidi kunye noncedo lwayo. [^8]: Funda malunga nemveliso yeTussah Silk kunye neempawu zayo ezahlukileyo xa kuthelekiswa nesilika yeMulberry. [^9]: Fumanisa iipropathi ezizodwa ze-Eri Silk kunye nokusetyenziswa kwayo kwilaphu. [^10]: Phonononga ukunqaba kunye neempawu zeMuga Silk, uhlobo olulodwa lwesilika yasendle.
Ixesha lokuposa: Aug-12-2025